Maheshwari handlooms are one of India’s most well-known handcrafted textiles loved the world over for its fineness, delicacy and sophistication. Like all handwork, much imagination, labour and patience go into its making.

History of the Saree

The first evidence that the Indian saree was worn was found with the small statues of Sumer dates back to 2000‐3000 B.C. – the time of the Indus Valley Civilization. There are references to the saree in several works of Sanskrit literature.

The Rigveda, 1200 B.C. tells about the bright golden saree and brocade. In  Mahabharata, there is a reference to the pearl embroidered saree. Mural‐paintings in the Ajanta caves features the Bandana saree, or warp and weft weave. Sculptors of Ajanta refer to the use of lines, squares, points, angles, circles,  and curves in saree designs.

History of Maheshwari Handloom

Maheshwar is a small town on the banks of the river Narmada in the Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh. Maheshwar, after becoming the capital of Devi Ahilyabai Holkar state, saw many developments. This included construction of temples,  ghats and other prominent structures.

Devi Ahilya Bai invited weavers from various princely states like Hyderabad, Mandav and many more to settle in Maheshwar. She supported the local enterprises by purchasing their products for herself as well as for gifting to visiting dignitaries, a move made to spread Maheshwari handloom pan India.

Weavers were instructed to follow the designs inscribed on the walls of the fort. These designs can be found on the borders of Maheshwari sarees even today.

Thus, the handloom operations adopted at that time are still adhered to, including the use of only the natural fibres.

Read about Why we should support the handloom Industry.

Maheshwar Handloom in India

Maheshwar handloom products are specialised and made only in Maheshwar. They have a and cultural identity.  However, the other areas of the country where silk sarees are woven are: Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, and Orissa.

The handloom industry in Maheshwar employs Kshatriyas, Bharuds, Muslims, Kumhars and Kahars. All these people belong to nearby areas or have migrated to Maheshwar and are now permanent residents there.

The Raw Materials

Cotton, silk and zari (golden wire) are the primary materials for Maheshwari Sarees. Cotton yarn for the weft is purchased from Coimbatore. Mulberry Silk is used as the warp. This is purchased from dealers in Bangalore. Zari is used mainly in weaving the beautiful borders of Maheshwar sarees. This is procured from Surat (Gujarat).

The Tools

1. Taana or Warp Machine   

The warp machine is made of two essential parts. One vital part is a big octagonal cylinder that rotates on its axis, and the other is a vertical rack with thread rolls placed.

Rolls pass through the cylinder of the machine from hooks under a continually and moving frame helps in winding the cylinder in a criss‐cross manner.

2. Handloom  

Two types of handlooms used in Maheshwar are—the traditional pit looms, and the newer frame looms.

Frame Looms are superior to the older pit looms as they are lightweight, require less effort by the weaver. They are easily detachable and therefore can be shifted for rearrangements etc. The pulley arrangement lends better finishing to the borders of the saree.     

3. Charkha

It is used for making the rolls of thread. In the case of warp, it is a big motorised one, which prepares big silk rolls. In the case of weft, it is the smaller wooden one which prepares bobbins. These are inserted in the shuttle to form the weft.

4. Dyeing Apparatus

These include various types of dyes and the tubs in which the dyeing is carried out.

The Process

The designs of Maheshwari handlooms are border-based and inspired by the engravings on the fort walls. Depending on the border design, they are classified as bugadi kinar, phool kinar, chatai kinar, zari patti, rui phool kinar, V kinar, kahar kinar, and bajuband kinar.

Traditionally, a range of natural dyes such as the red from the sattalu plant, the browns from Harada and yellow from the Pallas flower were used. Aal or the Indian Madder colour was acquired too.

Today, chemical dyes are used. Sando Silk, a special dye, is used for silk threads. The process begins by dipping the raw threads for bleaching in a unique solution. Followed by the actual dyeing process where the dyes are mixed in warm water in big metal tubs. Naphthol is used to provide stability to the colours. Then they are washed in plain water and hung on bamboo poles for drying.

The thread bundles are untangled and reeled with the help of a charkha. For warping of the silk threads, a delicate process involving an octagonal cylindrical frame and hooks is used. The dyed and untangled yarn is ready for weaving by master weavers.

Once a saree is complete, it is taken off from the loom and sent for cutting. The typical length of such a saree is about 11 feet. It is then folded and packed. No ironing or printing is required.

Final Product

Maheshwari handloom products are used in a variety of forms, including as sarees, dupattas, salwar suits, shirts, etc. They are also used for home furnishing, like curtains and cushion covers.

Reference:
www.craftmark.org
www.indiaemb.org.
A Handbook on Maheshwar Handlooms Cluster
www.indiacrafts.com